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Author Archives: Drew Lazor

Meet Meat the gentlemen of Side Project Jerky

Growing up in Utah, Marcos Espinoza just wanted to be normal. When he was in fifth grade, his New Mexican family opened Navajo Hogan, a Native American eatery in South Salt Lake, translating to long work hours for mom and dad — and full-blown “little restaurant rat” status for their son, who washed dishes and lent hands during catering gigs while the 9-to-5 parents of schoolmates enjoyed a more conventional day-to-day. “I wanted so bad to be normal, because all my friends were quote-unquote normal,” he says. “But now, that’s the last thing I want to be.”

Business-wise, at least. Espinoza, a married father of two, is now a 9-to-5er himself — he works as a cost estimator for a local construction company. “I really like my job,” he says. “But I also wanted to do something other than that, something involved with food.” He turned this desire into an impeccably branded reality earlier this year with Side Project Jerky (SPJ), a handmade snack that appeals to the polished, meat-masticating gentleman inside us all.

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Beer and food become best friends at Ommegang’s inaugural Philly Hop Chef

I’ve volunteered to judge dozens of cooking competitions since I began writing about food professionally years ago. Burgers, organic pastries, vegan barbecue, Buffalo wings, shucked oysters, gingerbread-flavored cocktails, cupcakes, chili in volumes that’d fill a regulation Olympic-size pool — I’ve sucked it all down, scribbling notes and numeric scores on sauce-stained paper while grinning like a Hunger Games champ with two hollow legs.  My willingness to participate in these cookoffs has led to some friends accusing me of being a whore for dream-smushing edible valuation, but really I just like to eat a whole lot.

With my enthusiasm, of course, has come a predictable drawback: awful food. A decent amount of the stuff I’ve tasted for competitions has been solid to excellent. A majority of it is just alright, just OK. But then there are the brain-searingly memorable duds. Chewy scallops, raw-but-not-in-a-good-way lamb, rancid parm-topped pasta, mixed drinks so unnecessarily strong they caused parts of my face to melt like the Nazis in the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Gotta take the bad with the good, yeah?

Not so with Philly’s inaugural Hop Chef.

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Open Stove IV: France vs. Germany vs. Sweden vs. America vs…yellow mustard?

“When you’re always in the shits, you’re never in the shits.”

That tremendous quotable, dropped by Kenny “Admiral Snackbar” Bush during the fourth installment of COOK’s frenetic and tremendously popular Open Stove series, seems like something that should appear on a limited-edition T-shirt or apron, or at least on a check card at The Industry. But the Bistrot La Minette man (right), who squared off against Henrik “The Swedish Hammer” Ringbom of Brauhaus Schmitz last week, might have also unwittingly stumbled upon an unofficial mantra for Open Stove itself.

Yes, competitions centered around revealed-at-the-last-second secret ingredients are de rigueur for food TV — but that’s TV, where editors, fiending for fabricated drama the same way Cookie Monster fiends for his personal smack, cut and paste and fold and tweak until their sadistic boob-tube whims are met. At Open Stove, there is no phony smoke blown in any direction: It’s real-deal off-the-top cooking, a challenge that places competitors directly “in the shits,” bogged down with 20,000 tasks while the clock ticks in triple time and hungry guests double as potential witnesses to a Chernobyl-caliber kitchen meltdown.

There is also soooooo much alcohol.

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?uest Loves Food visits the Night Market

Last week’s Night Market, the sixth installment in The Food Trust‘s crazy-popular nomadic street food series, packed several spacious blocks of Washington Avenue in the Italian Market zone with revelers, falling in queue to get their hands on a head-spinning selection of eats — barbecue, takoyaki, tacos, Caribbean, nu-Korean, porchetta, frozen bananas, freshie biscuits, phew. For the first time, however, the event’s VIP section handled by an ever-elusive chicken-fried entity familiar to Philly food-event frequenters: ?uest Loves Food, the edible imprint of The RootsAhmir “?uestlove” Thompson.

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Next-level pickles from Jersey Gina’s Gems

“Suddenly, everyone’s calling me The Pickle Guy,” says Ryan Harrison. “And everyone who knows my mom? They call her The Pickle Lady.”

Nicknames that stick are often the result of some sort of memorable childhood happenstance, but the title Harrison shares with his mother Gina is a more recent development. The vinegary monikers are being tossed around local markets, restaurant kitchens and right here at COOK for one simple reason: The Harrisons make their own dill pickles, and they’re damn good at it.

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July 30: The 2012 Philly Pig Dinner at Mémé

Two weeks back, six Philly chefs made their way up to NYC’s James Beard House to cook the very first collaborative Pig Dinner off their home turf. Chef David Katz, who launched this porky tradition at his restaurant Mémé in 2009, invited John Taus (The Corner), Terence Feury (Fork, until next month), Peter Woolsey (Bistrot La Minette), Michael Solomonov (Zahav) and Jennifer Carroll (Carroll Couture Cuisine) up with him to crank out the multi-course meal, the only stipulation being that every plate had to include a porcine element in some way. Those who couldn’t make the trip up for the occasion should start thanking their lardo-coated stars — on Monday, July 30, Katz is getting the crew back together for a second run, at his spot right here in Philly.

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Second location of Underdogs opening in South Philly

Robert Amar, who’s got quite the food-industry-friendly hit on his hands with the four-month-old Underdogs (132 S. 17th St.), is expanding his wiener reach into South Philly. By late August or early September, he’ll introduce a second location of his hot-dog/sausage restaurant at 1205 S. Ninth St., the long-vacant former home of O Sandwiches. “I’m really keen on being right next to Pat’s and Geno’s,” says Amar, who lives in South Philly. “As much as people like to frown on [them], I don’t know why — I think it’s great. They bring so many people to the city. They are landmark places.”

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Starr veteran opening Growler’s in Bella Vista

Jay Willard, a veteran of the Stephen Starr collective who most recently worked as GM of The Dandelion, is targeting September 1 for a new project: Growler’s, a neighborhood bar he’s opening in the former Vesuvio/Little Bar at Eighth and Fitzwater with Jason Evenchik, owner of Vintage, Time, Bar and the forthcoming Garage.

“It’s always been the plan,” says Willard, who remembers watching the Phillies win the 2008 World Series at Vesuvio, of branching out on his own. “I remember saying to myself, ‘It doesn’t get any better than Starr. The only way I would leave is if I open my own place.'”

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That’s Your Queue: Behind the Shake Shack Line

The greatest trick Danny Meyer ever pulled? Convincing the world that it wants to wait in The Line.

Since 2004, when the effervescent restaurateur opened his first Shake Shack in New York City, Meyer’s dealt with heavy queues — snaking through Madison Square Park regardless what’s falling from the sky, trickling out of a glitzy Theater District doorway, packing a greenified courtyard on the Upper East Side. Now, with Philadelphia’s one-week-old Shake Shack spreading crinkle-cut love all over Center City, The Line has a permanent 215 area code. It clings to the eastern wall of Shack’s former-dry-cleaner digs, stretching, at its longest, to the corner of 20th and Moravian, where late lunch-rush arrivals stare at their shoes, closer to Tower Style Pizza‘s graffiti’d Dumpster than to chilly salvation via Termini cannoli-studded “Liberty Shell” concrete.

And that’s precisely how the founder and CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group wants it. “We didn’t engineer having the line,” Meyer told CNBC in 2010, “but we did embrace it.”

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