Tuesday night marked the first official class at COOK, and it was, in a word, magnifique!
Chef Perrier, master of French cuisine and extraordinary teacher, took our 16 lucky guests step-by-step through the following four-course menu featuring wines paired by his sommelier at Le Bec-Fin, Cristine Bruno.
- Risotto à la Milanaise à la Feuille D’Or (Risotto Milanese Style with Gold Leaf) – Lunetta, Prosecco
- Saumon Sauté au Beurre Léger (Sautéed Salmon with a Light Butter Sauce) – Domaine des Vieilles Perrieres, Macon-Vergisson, 2007
- Volaille au Vinaigre (Chicken with a Raspberry Vinegar Sauce) – Wine by Joe, Jose’s Rose, 2010
- Île Flottante (“Floating Island” of Meringue with Vanilla Custard) – Tomasello Winery,Vidal Blanc
Executive Chef at COOK and Audrey Claire, Lou Boquilla, served as Chef’s sous-chef for the evening. Chef Perrier was kind enough to autograph his cookbook for the guests when he wasn’t behind the stove and he even had time to answer our COOK QUESTIONNAIRE:
- What is your favorite curse word to use in the kitchen? I never swear
- What is your favorite cooking utensil? A serviced spoon
- What is your favorite fast food joint? I don’t eat fast food
- What is your beverage of choice? Red wine
- If you could cook for 3 people (living or dead), who would they be? Yul Brenner, Oprah Winfrey, Grace Kelly
- What is your favorite restaurant in the world? Hotel Oustau de Baumaniere (at it’s height)
- What is your favorite place to shop for food in Philly? The Farmers market
- What other career would you like to have if you weren’t a chef? Cannot imagine being anything else
- What is always in your refrigerator? Perrier and cheese
- What is your hangover cure? I never have a hangover
- What is the best meal you ever had? The Alain Ducass dinner for Craig Claiborne
- What is your favorite type of fat? Duck
- What was your first job in a restaurant? Making pasta for a pastry chef
- What would be your last meal on Earth? Bordeaux Wine, Champagne, caviar, omelette with caviar, sauteed potatoes and a frisée salad.
One of the most impressive techniques Chef used (among the hundred or so he demonstrated) was his method for determining whether the caramel topping for the Ile Flottante was ready. He stuck his fingers into icy cold water then quickly transferred his fingers into the boiling sugar water and grabbed some between his fingers. If the caramel shattered or broke in a particular fashion, the sauce was not ready.It was one of the most coolest (pardon the pun) things I’ve ever seen a chef do. You can find the recipe for Ile Flottante and the other three courses Chef Perrier prepared below.
RECIPES:
Risotto à la Milanaise à la Feuille D’Or
- 2 cups jus de legumes (see below)
- pinch of saffron
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup arborio rice
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- 1/2 cup fresh-shelled, blanched fava beans or peas (optional)
- 2 tbsp freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
- salt and white pepper
- four 2-inch squares gold leaf (optional)
In a small pot (or using the microwave) heat the Jus de Legumes and saffron to scalding. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, cook the shallots in the butter until transparent, but not browned. Add the rice, stirring until it is shiny and translucent. Turn up the heat and add the wine. Cook over high heat until the wine evaporates. Turn the heat down so the rice just simmers.
Start adding the hot broth, one ladelful at a time. Keep simmering, stirring occasionally until the broth is absorbed, then add another ladelful. Continue until all the broth has been absorbed by the rice. Turn off the heat, stir in the fava beans and grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste and let the rice sit a few minutes until the cheese melts. The risotto should consist of firm but cooked grains of rice suspended in a creamy liquid.
Divide the risotto between 4 heated appetizer-sized plates. If desired, decorate the top of each risotto portion with the gold leaf. Serve immediately.
Jus de Legumes (vegetable broth – makes 2 quarts)
- 3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 onion, unpeeled and coarsely chopped
- 1 red bell pepper, coarsely chopped
- 1 bunch fresh italian parsley
- 4 large white mushrooms, cleaned and chopped
- 2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
- 1 leek, cleaned and chopped
- 10 crushed black peppercorns
- 1 sprig fresh thyme
- 1/2 head garlic
- 3 shallots
Place all ingredients in a large stockpot. Cover with a cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer and cook for 1 hour. Puree the liquid in blender. Strain and chill. This will keep for up to 4 days in the refrigerator or up to 1 month in the freezer.
Saumon Sauté au Beurre Léger
- 4-5 oz. portions salmon filet (skinless, boneless)
- 2 tbsp minced onion
- 4 tbsp butter
- 2 tbsp brunoise tomato
- 1/2 cup + 1 tbsp basmati rice
- 1 tbsp chopped chives
- 1 cup sauce beurre léger
In 1 tbsp butter, toast 1 tbsp basmati rice in a sauté pan until golden brown in color. Remove from pan and reserve.
In a small pot, melt 2 tbsp butter, sweet onion, then add 1/2 cup rice. Stir the rice to make sure all the grains are coated with butter. Add 3/4 cup boiling water to the rice and stir. Reduce heat and cook over a low flame until done. Add toasted basmati, season with salt and pepper.
Sauté seasoned salmon in 1 tbsp butter and 1 tbsp blended oil over med-heat until cooked medium rare to medium.
Divide basmati among 4 plates, place salmon on basmati. Add tomato and chives to hot Beurre Léger and ladle around fish.
Volaille au Vinaigre
- 4 chicken breasts
- 2 tbsp butter
- 2 sprigs fresh thyme
- 8 cloves of garlic with skin
- 1 oz. raspberry vinegar
- 1 oz. white wine
- 4 tsp dijon mustard
- 4 tsp tomato purée
- 4 tsp worcestershire sauce
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 cup demi glaze
- 1 oz. cognac
Remove breast from chicken and leave the skin on. Set aside. Heat heavy skillet, add the butter to the skillet.
When hot, add chicken breasts with the skin side down, the fresh thyme and garlic. Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover pan with a lid. Cook on medium heat 5 minutes on skin side, 15 min to 20 minutes on side. Degrease pan and deglaze with Cognac, raspberry vinegar and white wine. When liquid has reduced, remove chicken and add mustard, tomato purée, worcestershire sauce and heavy cream. Reduce, add demi glaze and reduce again. Finish sauce with butter.
Île Flottante
Meringue:
- 550 g egg white
- 450 g sugar
Beat egg white to medium peak and add sugar gradually until the whites are firm using a star-tip pipe rosette or an ice cream spoon. Poach 2 minutes each side in simmering water. Do not boil. Remove with the help of a spoon from water and set on tray to cool. Keep refrigerated prior to serving.
English custard:
- 445 g egg yolk
- 555 g sugar
- 1000 g heavy cream
- 1000 g milk
- 10 tahitian vanilla bean
Boil milk, cream and vanilla bean (cut in half lengthwise). At the same time, whisk yolk and sugar until it turns a pale yellow color. When milk base reaches a boil, add yolk and re-cook all over fire until base reaches 85 degrees C (202 degrees F). Strain and cool down over ice bath Bain Marie. Keep refrigerated.
Caramel for topping:
- 500 g sugar
- 150 g water #1
- 50 g corn syrup or glucose
- 150 g water #2
Cook sugar, corn syrup or glucose in water #1 to a nice dark caramel color (like dark amber). Then de-glaze with warm water #2. Set aside.You do not have to refrigerate.
Presentation:
In a soup plate or bowl, pour 1/4 of the way with English custard. Then set 3 nice rosette of poached meringue and top with the caramel all around.
