Fall is finally here. As much as warm weather foods are refreshing and overall bright, the autumn ushers in heartwarming comfort craved by all. The harvest also offers chefs a cornucopia of opportunities to highlight the season before things slow down in the winter. It is in that space that recently appointed Red Owl Tavern chef, Jonathan Dearden, was happy to operate for his class last week.
From the outside looking in, being a hotel restaurant might seem like an easy task for a chef. One might think it is a chance to mail it in because where else are guests going to conveniently dine? Nothing could be further from the truth for a city that boasts such a thriving food scene as Philadelphia does. This is Jon’s challenge as he assumes control at this Kimpton property, and he’s certainly up for it if his COOK class is any indication.
For starters, he treated everyone to a bite with goat cheese and onion jam, paired with a Manhattan made with smoked mulling spices.
The official first course of the evening was a pan-seared scallop with celery root puree, delicata squash, spinach and apple cider gastrique. If you aren’t familiar with delicata squash, it is the antithesis of butternut squash in that you can half it and roast it as a very simple preparation. The sweeter flavors of the squash and celery root puree combined with the astringency of the apple cider gastrique to perfectly complement the richness of the scallop.
Carbonara served as the following course – although it was not your typical composition. Utilizing spaghetti squash instead of actual pasta, Jon found a creative way to incorporate a gluten alternative. Adding in bacon and roasted garlic cream sauce, it is easy to see why this dish is one of their best-selling dishes at the 5th and Chestnut eatery.
The final savory course was rosemary roasted beef tenderloin. If you’re like me, the classic tenderloin certainly excites you. Couple that with the fact that he rubbed everything bagel seasoning along with the rosemary all over it, you should run (not walk) to see what else they’re doing at Red Owl. Finishing the plate with honeynut squash puree, root vegetables and red wine demi-glace offered balance to the overall experience.
Lastly, the finishing touch on the night was pot de crème with maple and baking spices.
Treat yourself to a staycation at Hotel Monaco and enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner at Red Owl Tavern.
Red Owl Tavern
433 Chestnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19106
215.923.2267
