What better venue for the first-ever Fair Food Feast than Talula’s Garden, that idylllic culinary oasis in our concrete jungle, located on Washington Square and co-owned by Fair Food Member Aimee Olexy. Aimee, a prominent figure in the local food movement in Philly, is no stranger to COOK, having taught a memorable class in March of 2012 (see the photo gallery). On December 3rd Aimee was joined by co-hosts Judy Wicks (founder of White Dog Café and Fair Food Philadelphia) and Michel Nischan (founder and President of Wholesome Wave and celebrated locavore chef) as well as a who’s-who of the locavore scene, gathered to not only raise funds for Fair Food but also to celebrate the organization’s remarkable achievements, sample local fare, and finally meet the farmers and producers, adding a human element to the farm-to-table journey of our food.

Aimee Olexy, Co-Owner of Talula’s Garden and member of Fair Food

Wyebrook Farm Beef Canapes

Another friend to COOK was in attendance–none of than Farmer Dean (formally known as Dean Carlson) of Chester County’s Wyebrook Farm. Ring a bell? COOK is the exclusive Center City location to pick up Wyebrook’s sustainably-raised beef, pork, poultry and produce. Located in Honey Brook, PA, Wyebrook Farm provides an alternative to the industrial food supply and ordering from COOK is a breeze. We were psyched to see Wyebrook’s stellar beef on the menu for the evening.

Speaking of menu…If you’re like me, you’re thinking, ok, ideologies aside, what’s for dinner? After all, it IS all about the food in the end, right? So before providing some information on Fair Food and how you can get involved, the food…

Wyebrook Farm Beef Canapes, Cress, Radish, and Horseradish

Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op Squash Soup with Baily’s Dairy Ricotta

Orrechiette, Braised Meadowset Farm and Apiary Lamb and Coyote Run Organics Cabbage

Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op Hen, Pumpkin Bread Salad, and Root Veggies

Phillips Mushroom Farms Kennett Square Morning-Picked Mushrooms

Birchrun Hills Farm Cheese Collection

Culton Organics Persimmon Honey Cake & Carrot Bars with Three Springs Fruit Farm Pear Sorbet

Éclat Chocolate & La Columbe Coffee

This was a rare occasion, to eat a meal with the producers literally sitting at your table. Often one visits a restaurant and orders a dish that, for example, features a pork chop from such-and-such farm.  But this evening, the farm had a face to it and the face was seated to your right. On my right (literally) was Sue Miller, of Birchrun Hills Farm Cheese. Sue was, for lack of a better word, lovely, asking about COOK and who was teaching this week. With each name I mentioned, she smiled and shared a story, reinforcing the notion that Philly, despite being a big city, really is a small town.

Admittedly, I was a bit nervous sitting next to Sue, not because of her personality, which was warm and gracious, but because I am an adventurous eater in all food groups except one–cheese. Was this karmic fate that I would be seated next to the woman whose cheese I couldn’t refuse without offending her? So, just as when I ate duck hearts at Michael Solomonov’s Zahav, I left my trepidations at the door, bit my tongue and ate what was given to me. And also like my introduction to duck hearts, I was more than pleasantly surprised. I had been stubbornly opposed to the more adventurous cheeses all my life, but one bite into Sue’s Blue variety and I realized I had been missing out. I had been a fool to limit myself to the hard and semi-hard branches of cheese’s family tree. In fast, I was an instant addict. The next day I visited the Fair Food Farmstand in the Reading Terminal Market and bought a hefty wedge of her blue, which in a thank-you email to Sue I referred to as the “gateway drug” to the world of blue cheese.

But that evening I learned more than that blue cheese wasn’t something I should fear. Each speaker at the event opened my eyes to facts and figures surrounding Philly’s locavore movement and Fair Food’s pivotal role in it. So what should YOU know?

• Founded in 2000 by Judy Wicks and Ann Karlen, Fair Food is dedicated to bringing healthy local food to the marketplace and promoting a humane sustainable agricultural system for the region.
• Fair Food launched their Farmstand in the Reading Terminal Market in 2003, beginning as a humble folding table and growing into a vibrant retail venue selling produce, meats, cheeses, dairy, eggs, grains and beans from more than 100 farmers and producers in the region. With the holidays upon us, the Fair Food Farmstand is THE locavore’s shopping destination for holiday meals, as well as party items and gifts. The farmstand has several gift ideas/packages available, so stop by any day of the week.
• I had always heard of Fair Food’s Double Dollars program but never knew much beyond its name. Double Dollars serves those individuals using SNAP (formerly, Food Stamps) by offering a dollar-for-dollar match on groceries purchased at the Farmstand–up to $10 per week. The program has reached such a level of success that the Farmstand is now reaching over 650 households. Since starting the program in 2010, SNAP sales have increased a whopping 347%.
• Your donations and support enable Fair Food to continue its mission. One way of showing your support is by attending upcoming events hosted by Fair Food. On March 10 20 local restaurants join forces with 20 local craft breweries for The Brewer’s Plate. Now in its ninth year, The Brewer’s Plate is a one-of-a-kind tasting event that pairs craft beer with local fare. And on April 14, Philly Farm & Food Fest ushers in the growing season and offers visitors a way to connect with more than 100 local growers and their products. Last year’s first annual event was a smashing success with over 3,000 in attendance.

Sean McPaul, Executive Chef of Talula’s Garden

In closing, thanks to Fair Food’s Ann Karlen, Vikram Krishnamurthy and Christina Dowd, as well as Board Member Robin Barnes for including us in the event. And a big thanks to Aimee Olexy, who was the hostess with the mostess, sneaking us into her Talula’s Garden kitchen for a behind-the-scenes look at the event. Consider this our “we’re in” notification for next year!

Photos: Yoni Nimrod.